Most people book Uganda for the gorillas. Then they get to Ishasha, look up into a fig tree, and find a lioness draped over a branch like a dropped scarf — and suddenly the trip has a second headline. Uganda’s lions are the country’s most underrated wildlife encounter, and for British and European travellers already flying in for gorilla trekking, adding them costs very little extra.
Thank you for reading this post, don't forget to subscribe!The Ishasha sector, in the southern arm of Queen Elizabeth National Park, holds one of only two populations in Africa known for routinely resting in trees. The other is in Tanzania’s Lake Manyara. Nobody has settled the “why” — the leading theories are escaping ground heat, dodging biting tsetse flies, and getting a better view over the grass for spotting Uganda kob. Whatever the reason, the behaviour is genuinely habitual here, not a one-off.
They favour large fig and acacia trees along the Ishasha river circuits. Sightings are good but never guaranteed: reckon on roughly a 50–60% chance across two game drives, better if you dedicate a full day and go early. Guides in the sector share sightings by radio, which is exactly why a local operator with a well-connected driver is worth more than a discounted self-drive.
Queen Elizabeth (Kasenyi plains). The northern sector of the same park is open savannah crowded with Uganda kob — prime lion hunting ground. Morning drives here have the highest general lion success rate in the country.
Murchison Falls. Uganda’s largest park. The Buligi delta tracks north of the Nile hold strong prides, and because the grass is shorter than at Ishasha, sightings are often closer and easier to photograph. Pair a morning game drive with the afternoon boat cruise to the base of the falls.
Kidepo Valley. Remote, in the far north-east, and the connoisseur’s choice. Big prides, almost no other vehicles, and scenery closer to Namibia than to typical East Africa. It takes a domestic flight or a long drive, so it suits second-time visitors.
The dry seasons — June to September and December to February — are best. Grass is shorter, tracks are firm, and animals concentrate near water. Ishasha’s murram roads turn awkward in the April–May rains, which is when many travellers skip it entirely. For European visitors, June to September also lines up neatly with school summer holidays.
Return flights from London to Entebbe run roughly £550–£850 depending on season and routing, with Qatar Airways, Turkish Airlines, Brussels Airlines and Emirates all viable. Kenya Airways via Nairobi is often the cheapest.
On the ground, a mid-range guided Uganda safari costs around £190–£280 per person per day including a 4×4 with a pop-up roof, driver-guide, park fees, full board and lodging. A typical 5-day loop taking in Queen Elizabeth, Ishasha and Murchison Falls lands at about £1,100–£1,500 per person. Add a gorilla permit at $800 and a Bwindi extension, and a 8–9 day combined gorilla-and-lion trip works out at roughly £2,600–£3,400 per person excluding flights. Budget camping trips can come in lower; luxury lodges push well past £5,000.
Uganda’s tourist visa is applied for online in advance at $50, and an East Africa Tourist Visa at $100 is better value if you’re combining with Rwanda or Kenya. A yellow fever certificate is required. Bring antimalarials, a decent pair of binoculars, and neutral-coloured layers — dawn game drives on the plains are genuinely cold before the sun climbs. Uganda is on GMT+3, so there is no real jet lag from the UK, just an overnight flight.
One honest expectation-setter: Uganda is not the Serengeti. Lion densities are lower and the drives are quieter. What you get instead is space, very few other vehicles, and the chance of a sighting almost nobody else in your circle will have photographed.
Ready to plan your safari? Contact Nature Nest Safaris at book@naturenestsafaris.com or call +256 777 131 912. We build tailored Uganda itineraries for UK and European travellers, from short gorilla-and-lion combinations to full two-week grand tours.
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